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Kuta
Bali Dude.
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Kuta
Bali Dudettes.
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"Oooh...
No- you go first..."
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My
kinda waves.
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Pretentious
reflection photo, Kuta, Bali.
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Beach
fishing on Lombok seems to be an impact sport for the locals.
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After
an afternoon of torrential rain trekking up Mount Rinjani, the clouds
finally parted. Thing is. Lynneth and myself were dressed like we'd just
taken a wrong turn on the way to the beach. We were still wet 2 days
later.
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Beware
the legendary Rinjani low flying pineapple.
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Monkey
Bastard.
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The
guides cooked up some surprisingly good food. If you like instant
noodles with ketchup.
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Mohammed,
our porter. Officially the hardest man in the world. As we whinged and
wheezed our way up and down the Godforsaken lump of rock, he happily
skipped ahead in his flip-flops carrying our camp and 20 kilos of crap
for us. Embarrassing.
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And
he was on 40 a day.
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The
clouds cleared enough in the evening to get a great view of Gunung Agung
over on Bali. I'm still not convinced that buying a postcard isn't the
better option though.
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Rinjani
crater lake, Segara Anak. Stocked with carp and tilapia apparently.
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Wilko
at the rim.
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But
down in the crater, the locals had set up camps all over the shop.
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And
they stay at the lake for up to 2 months at a time fishing. Carp anglers:
the same the world over.
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And
crap everywhere, the ground crunching with scales and bones. Stinks too.
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I
took a rod and bread cos I thought I might have a dabble, but found out
that Indonesian fish don't like it! It was only when I did a "hooks
for bait" deal with a local carp angler that I found out that sweet
potato was the way forward. Good job they aren't as secretive as back in
England.
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The
Hardest Man In The World off collecting firewood for our camp.
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And
getting it sparked up as the clouds receded into the crater.
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Finally
one of the peaks nudges through...
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And
even the lower trees eventually become visible...
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The
clouds finally wisp away from the spooky mountain tops...
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Leaving
a clear moon rising above the very summit of Rinjani.
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But
at the end of the day, I f**king hate hiking. I f**king hate arthritic
knees.
And I f**king hate volcanoes. Never again. We'd forgotten Australian
Dave's words of wisdom from back in Guatemala: "Listen, an extinct
volcano is just a f***ing big hill". I won't forget it again.
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A
pretty bit of conviviality before the nine hour hike down in the
morning.
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Carrying
that much petrol? Open? On the back of a truck like that? A terrorist
offence anywhere other than Indonesia.
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The
pretty harbour in Sape on Sumbawa Island.
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And
the sun slipped down as we eventually left the harbour on the 8 hour
ferry trip over to Labuan Bajo on Flores.
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After
a 1am arrival and a night laid on the concrete floor of a restaurant, it
was a relief to see the sun come up over Labuan Bajo.
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The
clearest, bluest sea ever; Komodo National Park.
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Which
coincidentally is where the Komodo Dragons live, believe it or not, and
they live by eating horses, goats and buffalo and drinking out of the
toilets at the ticket office.
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The
bit they spit out.
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Sunset
over the Komodo islands. Nice.
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Tiny
Seraya Island, an hour off Flores. We found paradise again.
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Oh.
A couple of old deers come face to face on the beach. That Nasi Goreng
is clearly trippy stuff.
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Paradise
it may have been, but it didn't stop the place being netted, long-lined,
cyanide fished, dynamited and generally shafted up anywhere not
encapsulated in the boundaries of the national park. This just about
left only small Trevally and Mackerel to occasionally nag our lures.
Even the local fish market held only baskets of 4 inch long shad, and
the restaurant couldn't guarantee fish on the menu. Very sad.
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Our
local boat taxi driver (NOT a fisherman...as I found out after a couple of
trips driving in circles with a bewildered look on his face), Mr
P. Herring, with a freaky Trumpetfish that somehow impaled itself.
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Marco
from Holland with a cute little Coral Trout which seized his Rapala.
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All
aboard the Skylark. Pugwash and Seaman Stains look out cos I'm at the
helm. Interesting to steer, cos you had to start turning the wheel ten
minutes before you actually wanted to change direction. It got even more
interesting when the wheel came off in my hand.
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I
kept telling Marco, no matter how far I held this out in front of me,
it's still pathetic.
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Stunning
place- pity about the fishing. Next time I visit I'll be paying someone
with a nice big boat as much money as I can muster to go for some
fishing in the national park- which, trust me, would be awesome.
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Independence
Day, and the Indonesian Marines join in the celebrations with
unsurpassed levels of pomp, ceremony and dignity.
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